What it's actually like
Florina is the town Greek weather forecasts use to frighten everyone else — routinely the coldest readings in the country, worn locally as a badge of honour. Its mountain, Vigla–Pisoderi, runs forest-lined pistes and proper cross-country routes 19 km up the pass, with a racing-club culture rather than a fashion scene; nobody drives here to be photographed. The town below does winter indoors: painters' studios — Florina has a real, slightly unexpected arts pedigree — grills working the local red peppers, and coffees that last an hour. Saturdays run at two speeds: club kids threading gates on the mountain, everyone else circulating between food, stove and the river that threads through the middle of town.
Build a loop, not a base-camp vigil. Ski or cross-country a day at Vigla, then give a full day to the Prespa lakes — among Europe's oldest, and in winter a silvered, half-frozen bird kingdom where waterbirds comfortably outnumber visitors. Add Nymfaio, one of the north's handsomest stone villages, and the Amyntaio wine country on the way in or out — high-altitude Xinomavro, including some of Greece's better sparkling wine. Then the caveat you already suspected: this is the coldest corner of Greece, road ice is routine, and the Prespa side roads deserve real caution after snowfall. Pack for genuine winter and Florina repays you with the least-touristed snow region in the country.
The winter offer
Forest pistes, snowboarding, cross-country routes and racing
When the lifts don't spin
Prespa Lakes, Nymfaio, Amyntaio wineries and Florina arts/food
Drive to half-frozen Prespa for waterbirds and hush, loop back through stone-built Nymfaio, and finish with Amyntaio's high-altitude Xinomavro.
Where you'll sleep
Florina hotels plus village/refuge-style accommodation